Hey, it’s YuTR0N!
This time I’m looking at EIBOS’s cold build plate, KRIOS. I’ve put a decent number of prints on several of these by now, so I’ll walk through the specs alongside what they’re actually like to live with.
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So what is a “cold plate”, anyway?
Short version: a plate that grips at low temperatures
Exactly what the name says. The PEI-based plates that dominate right now (smooth and textured) are generally run at around 55–65℃ for PLA and 70–80℃ for PETG. That gold-coloured sheet that comes stuck to most printers is textured PEI nine times out of ten — gold-coloured smooth PEI is something I’ve basically only seen back when I was buying Energetic sheets.
A cold plate is a plate whose surface is engineered to grip in a lower temperature range. For KRIOS, the official figures are 40℃ for PLA and 55℃ for PETG, and it’s advertised as needing no glue and no adhesion spray. You do see comments along the lines of “it sticks fine without glue!” — and it does — but personally, when I’m running a lot of prints, I’d still rather have glue in the mix even if it means washing the plate each time.
Why printing cold is actually nice
“Who cares if the bed runs hot?” is a fair reaction, but a lower bed temperature quietly helps in a few ways.
- The chamber doesn’t heat up more than it has to …… chamber temperature is the enemy when you’re printing PLA in an enclosed machine, especially in summer. It also helps with heat creep around the extruder and hotend.
- Faster warm-up, lower power draw …… power consumption drops, obviously, and the heat-up is short enough that you get to the first layer noticeably sooner.
If you’re working in the higher temperature range, I think you’re fine staying on textured PEI. Picking one material — PLA or PETG — and dedicating a plate to it is the best way to use these. Once you print something with poor compatibility and don’t wash the plate afterwards, adhesion falls off a cliff (PETG straight after PLA, for example).
What makes the EIBOS KRIOS different
KRIOS launched in April 2026 and is EIBOS’s first build plate product — everything else in their line-up is filament dryers.
1. A symmetrical design with no front or back
Most build plates are double-sided, but KRIOS goes one step further: it also works in either of two orientations. Being able to drop the plate back on without checking which way round it goes is a genuinely nice quality-of-life thing.
It’s hard to spot at a glance, but take a look at the shape of the near edge. Yep — either way round is fine. Incidentally, the bottom surface of your prints comes out with a smooth, matte finish.
2. PLA at 40℃ — and goodbye to heat creep
My house basically runs PLA and then jumps straight to ABS, so I don’t use much PETG — but PLA is my workhorse for everything from large parts down to small ones. Cold plates matter in winter too, of course, but summer is when they really earn their keep.
At home I use these on everything except the Prusa-size machines. I bought the X / H2C-size and the H2S-size sheets myself; the rest were provided by EIBOS. I was also a tester for KRIOS, so I have some in other colours and a few limited name-engraved plates.
3. Nine-layer construction
According to EIBOS, it’s a high-hardness, high-magnetic spring steel base with a proprietary coating stack on top, nine layers in total. The top layer is micro-porous, so the principle seems to be that material bites into the surface without needing to be excessively melted.
4. Identical on both sides
You can wear one side out and then flip it over, or label each face and dedicate them to different materials. That’s an option too.
5. AR codes printed on both faces
There’s an AR code printed on both faces of the plate, so as long as you’ve selected the plate type on the Bambu Studio side, the printer verifies it automatically before the print starts, exactly like a first-party sheet.
Line-up and pricing
| Compatible with | Regular | Summer sale |
|---|---|---|
| Bambu Lab X2D / P1 / P2 / X1 / A1 | $35.99 | $29.99 (-17%) |
| Bambu Lab H2D / H2S | $44.00 | $39.00 (-11%) |
| Bambu Lab H2C / A2L | $44.00 | $39.00 (-11%) |
| Bambu Lab A1 mini | $26.00 | $19.99 (-23%) |
| Snapmaker U1 | $35.99 | $29.99 (-17%) |
| Flashforge Creator 5 | $35.99 | $29.99 (-17%) |
| Prusa XL | $49.00 | $43.00 (-12%) |
| Prusa Core One | $35.99 | $29.99 (-17%) |
Shipping is free on two or more sheets, so if you’re buying, grabbing two at once (or adding something else to the order) is the move.
What I liked
- You don’t have to think about orientation …… the symmetrical design makes swapping plates easier.
- No glue required …… no more uneven glue-stick coverage or scrubbing spray residue off.
- Parts come off fast …… low temperature means it cools quickly, and a flex is usually all it takes.
- Usable on both sides …… standard these days, but there’s nothing better than double-sided.
- AR code support …… great if you want everything to work exactly like the first-party experience.
Things to watch out for
- Print marks stay visible …… faint whitish ghosts of past prints remain on the plate. There’s no effect on performance, so I don’t worry about it.
- No IPA or acetone …… they damage the coating, so it’s a hard no. Cleaning is basically “wipe with water”. Hitting this with IPA out of PEI-plate habit will shorten its life. Don’t clean it together with your other plates.
- AR code recognition depends on firmware …… the X1C in particular needs an update (see below).
Tips
When you get a “wrong plate” style error
Follow Bambu Lab’s official guidance and temporarily turn off build plate detection — that’s all you need.
When the X1C can’t read the AR code
This isn’t a defective plate — it’s either a dirty camera or a firmware-side issue. EIBOS covers it in their FAQ as well.
- Update the firmware to 01.11.02.00 or later (released 10 December 2025 — recognition accuracy for Cool Plate–type codes is dramatically improved)
- Clean the camera lens on the toolhead …… dust and filament debris will kill the read
- Check that the plate is sitting flat and in the correct position
Care and cleaning
The official line is wipe it with water when it gets dirty, though I generally wash mine with a mild dish detergent.
Who it’s for
- Anyone who’s sick of scraping glue and cleaning up, and doesn’t want to spend bath time with a build plate
- Anyone running lots of PLA in an enclosed machine and fighting heat creep clogs
- Anyone who gets the plate orientation wrong every single time (me)
Conversely, if ABS/ASA/PC is your main diet, you’ll be happier just using a high-temperature plate. Not trying to do everything with one sheet is, I think, the right way to live with build plates.
There are plenty of cold plates out there, first-party ones included, but if I had to sum KRIOS up in a line, it’s a cold plate that’s pleasantly weak in exactly the right way. The first-party SuperTack and various others grip extremely hard, and some of them work with the bed at room temperature — which in a sense is even colder. The flip side is that removal becomes a chore, and with silk filaments (weak layer adhesion) or parts with a small footprint, you can damage the print getting it off. There are probably tricks for popping those off cleanly — sticking the plate in the fridge and so on — but if you’re printing constantly, you’re not going to bother. KRIOS does ask for a little warmth compared to a room-temperature plate, but parts come off quickly, and that balance is why I like it.
Where to buy
As of 19 August 2026 the EIBOS official store is running a summer sale. Pick the one that matches your machine. Two or more sheets ship free.
Wrapping up
KRIOS isn’t a “does everything, works with everything” universal plate. It’s a plate for people who want to run PLA and PETG cold, without glue, and keep things moving. That said, most people are PLA users to begin with — so maybe “not universal, but works for almost everyone” is closer to the truth.
And if the company behind it interests you, there’s an exclusive interview with founder Duron as well. It covers how a filament dryer specialist ended up here.
Until next time — Have a “cool” print!
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